HHO switching at Resonance

vanov vyvíjač hydrogen

Sun, 12/09/2007 - 10:19

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Vyvíjač electrodes and TU

After a long involvement in various tests I concluded that so far the best way decomposition of water is a system that předkládám.Časem here, of course, could be another possible option-D is still dál.Jinak I was forced for reasons of time to publish this, thanks to some unpleasant realities and a variant ala Meyer seems impossible to me yet and I think it is in Scifi.Jen remember this description:

Translation

XOGEN. Super efficient electrolysis. The conversion of water into hydrogen and oxygen on demand. When water is put into its own molecular resonant frequency, [different frequency] 10 ranges above 620HZ, 630HZ, 12kHz, and 42.8 kilo-hertz to 40 kilovolts at around a MILLIAMPER {40watts}, its component dissociates water into hydrogen and oxygen part. Production is 20 times as larger as normal electrolysis. [Discovery doctor.Andrija Puharich, Yul BROWN, STANLEY MEYER,.] Already in this statement is clear, it's that simple nebude.Kdo knows Ohm's law R = U / I know that water is not so much resistance R and obtain current 1 mA at 40 kV is nereálné.Znáte themselves from their experiments, which will join the MV into the water actually goes into fault immediately, thanks to conductivity vody.Jinak frequencies are well shown in the table of resonance frequencies of John Kelly, where the basic rate of dissociation of water is 42.8 kHz, and that there are and the harmonic kmitočty.Tak just on the edge in terms Meyera.Nic But in this world is finite and only time will show! You may have noticed in our experiments with electrolysis, that whenever the device is switched on from the beginning consisted of more gas and over time, everything changed again in our famous "Sumako" But again přepolujete their equipment, the situation is again repeated at the beginning of a larger development of gas for some time and his performance again klesne.Takže why not take advantage of this phenomenon and to adapt to this phenomenon when this water accepts this fact, an alternate frequency, generated from the DC napětí.Navíc it has the advantage that the electrodes are clean and wear evenly.

The electrodes we use known Iv + 0 - 0 +, which, however, in this connection will alternate polarity:

+ 0 - and 0 + - 0 + 0 -. For the conductivity, of course, deliver or KOH NaH.Regulaci current (supply) and you can not drive, so you know you can be involved in pulsně.Zatím reversing, ie Reverse polarity to perform relay, which will be dominated by a simple circuit NE555 and so that you can use the outlet of our involvement in the integrated circuit Iv and the first (at left) will take to pin No.3 Relay 6-12V =. Just use a larger value capacitor © for longer times. Reverse polarity electronic form I have missed, but I know that our hands are handy and can get.

Iv. electrodes

The overall idea of ​​this method is shown below.

Here is a mechanical arrangement for stationary equipment.

The vyvíjača builds through the upper gas tube that connects the car to the suction filter for the gas escaping out then it is possible to sidetrack car burns petrol and gas.

The overall arrangement of stationary equipment, like me, who now works.

Conclusion:

When I recently viewed and studied the new equipment, I came across on the Net on the device, which is in principle very close to ours. http://www.sullydc.com/drawing.html Who can put this into better shape, I like including diagrams, at least everything is spread over more people and thus help to me from some pretty serious and nepříjemností.Kdo think understand how I am thinking to get out of it. I thank everyone here on the forum for help.Simple is success!

Author Ivan involvement.

More possible involvement

Dvojtranzistorové engagement

This generator has a very simple mechanical and electrical construction of the site. The test is able to deliver 2 liters of gas per minute at power 8V/10A and the pulse power, the working cycle is 90/10%. This means that the 80W power consume 10% less energy, the same evolution of gas tj.70W . The test is still a good ratio of 80/20%.

The entire generator is made up of stainless steel pipe (non-magnetic) and is actually a compact generator unit container. This eliminates any bonding containers and boxes.Also, this compact unit is mechanically reliable against random pressures and also for motorists to be an ideal opportunity to put the boot, because all known when stopped by police. Also, the financing costs are downloaded to up to a minimum.

Farther already know from the experience of copying various patents, for the most part, this device does not work as described. This is done intentionally, it omits a small but significant detail or other detail added. They are protective reasons, most of whom disagree with, especially in the free energy, even from an environmental perspective, etc. Think of the Meyer tube generators. Yes, the outer stainless steel tube, but the middle of the wrought iron, and that Mr. Meyer used the water from the tap, but that was concealed beneath the PH7 and so many people after testing all outlawed and eventually turned it on technology. the public against him.

According to the enclosed picture was clear generator design and technical detailing on each of the Vás.Uvedu here only the most important variables that are necessary for good funkci.Na picture shows a very simple connection napájení.Odpadají Various gland or screw things spoje.Nejdůležitější power is a plus half of the packaging container generator and minus half the median elektrodu.Střední electrode is made ​​of steel pipes neuhlíkaté, colloquially speaking, as the old saying blacksmiths - wrought iron.
Steel for forming a unified name for all malleable iron produced in a liquid state. The application is divided into structural and instrumental music, by chemical composition is divided into carbon steel and alloy ... They make malleable iron containing low carbon content and it is wrought iron with a carbon content below 2%. In the upper part of the drill holes electrodes for the passage of gas, which will lead us into an established safety komponentům.Základní set is from the outlet of the generator: the safety check valve, probublávačka ... The use of electrolyte in the case of secondary iron electrode acidic electrolyte. Acidic solutions is reflected in the content freely dissolved iron ions ... so here it is possible to use this materiál.Pro acidity and basicity scale is from 0 to 14 pH with a pH value of 7 corresponds to a neutral solution. Lower values ​​indicate the solution acidic or alkaline values ​​higher alkalický.V my case I used a crystalline citric acid. Minimum generators should not be less than 300mm.Průměr is not critical and depends on the total surface area of electrodes, which you použít.Rozměr gaps can be from 3mm-10mm, then you can adjust the conductivity roztoku.Čím smaller space, so then there is a high flow, and decomposition is interrupted, it is the reverse of knowledge than you zvyklí.Pro tests I used the inner tube 16 mm and 24 mm stainless steel.

Schema

Schema generator power control is applied to the image and is known to us used a simplified circuit with duty cycle timer 555.Používám 90/10, which is the best účinnost.Kmitočet 28uF capacitor is set up and should move from the base frequency 8Hz hydrogen to higher harmonic (16.24, ...) max.však 80Hz.Vyšší frequencies then working with a splash of free electrons, which is composed of 10 000uF electrolyte and three diodes at the end of the transistor.

End

At first glance, the device seems very simple, but for me it always was, without large demands on technology. Dostupnost.Nikomu issues and perhaps there is no reason to have made several of these compact cylinders, production is not difficult, just a nylon sheet is be manufactured on a lathe, or the electrode can be used as a stud. Well, except for the connection of both power and space holes is basically what you suggested by Carl Cella. We once did tests and found that inside the inner tube - the involvement of the same polarity (-) on the inner electrode and (+) on the packaging - there is practically pure hydrogen and oxygen interspace only! Cella because pumping water over and over and it gets rid of oxygen in the tank. The advantage is then that it nebouchá! Once you do a oxygen away, if only half the gas you get affectionate with which it can be well treated.

Ivanov vyvíjač hydrogen 3

Sun, 06/22/2008 - 8:54

Below is the involvement of the resonant circuit for use in our facility buňkách.Toto will indicate the full circumference of the rezonance.Potenciometrem M1 (frequency control) after switching on you slowly increase the frequency and simultaneously monitor the ammeter connected to the circuit to the electrodes. When increasing the frequency you will see that your current supplied to the circuit will slowly decrease until you reach the limit of your frequency generator and the entire system ceases to oscillate and the current falls to nulu.Takže, the best tuning is achieved when the lowest possible proudu.Každá cell is different and so too will have a different frequency. But this device do not ever deal with some frequency calculations, the device moves into resonance through the initial harmonics alone. Its frequency is usually between kolem20-30 kHz. It will be for each individual generator, but again, in this device, your cell frequency jumps alone. The exciters are used in the modern part, called. Mosfet Driver, indicating IR 2153 and completely excited you end the power transistors.

When you start the installation you will have such power to the cell 3A and achieve the highest possible flow rate will fall from 3 A to 0.8 A for the same evolution of gas at 3A. All diodes use the quick.

Still a little to the output circuit with a choke and a parallel circuit with a capacitor. choke is wound on Ferrite cores, diameter 7-9 mm, number of turns around the wire 140 preferably 1 mm (0.9). capacitor connected in parallel to the voltage filtering through the fast diode is the AC voltage around 275V. Use light bulb on the performance indicated in the diagram, but this value may vary according to design cells, at least you have a little glow. Tungsten is also used for visual inspection of the best adjustment, when the best tune in the whole circumference of the bulb and the greatest brightness the moment you stop and you increase the frequency of involvement naladěno.Toto I freed you all in good faith, it is easy to learn and to work with him as a layman . Compiled by Iv.

HHO MAP/MAF Enhancer

Simple MAP/MAF Enhancer

The Basics

First lets clarify some basics. MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure. A MAP sensor measures the pressure in your intake manifold. MAF = Mass Air Flow. A MAF sensor measures the amount of air coming in to your engine. These devices are designed so similarly that a device that works for a MAP also works for a MAF. Further, their information to the ECU is used similarly, and therefore adjustments to these 2 types of sensor will have a similar result. In the early days of the HHO industry, the MAP sensor was often treated, and so you will see devices sold on Ebay called "MAP Enhancers". These could just as well be called MAP/MAF Enhancers because they will work on both.

Before we go too much further, we should clarify one point: The first sensors that need to be addressed are the oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensor(s) are the primary sensors that the computer uses to determine the air/fuel mixture. If you're unfamiliar with the theory of how increases in fuel combustion efficiency relate to the need to do sensor modifications, see our Documents Page and read the articles at the top of the list. If, after you have treated the oxygen sensors, you still haven't gotten your mileage gains, I recommend you use the HHO System Debug Checklist, and make sure you have corrected any problems you find in your earlier steps. Only if everything is found to be correctly installed and functioning should you install a MAF/MAP enhancer. The exception to this rule is diesel engines, which generally don't have oxygen sensors, but even if the do, will need a MAP/MAF Enhancer.

Most vehicles have a MAF or a MAP sensor, but not both. In these cases you will treat the sensor you have. Some vehicles have both a MAP and a MAF sensor. In these cases you are best off treating the MAF sensor alone. However, some vehicles that have both types of sensor respond better treating the MAP, so if your vehicle has both sensor types, and your treatment of the MAF hasn't gotten you results, try the treating the MAP instead. I wouldn't treat both of them. You want to make as little change to the sensors as possible to achieve the result of a lowered air/fuel ratio. Treating both sensors can get the ECU confused and unable to do it's job correctly. After all the information from these sensors is needed for the correct operation of the engine.

Two Types of Sensor

There are 2 types of each of these sensors. The most common is what I'll call a "voltage type" MAP or MAF. The voltage type communicates to the ECU by giving it a voltage, and this voltage tells the ECU what the MAP's current pressure reading is, or the MAF's current volume of air flow. The ECU gives a control voltage to the sensor of 5 volts. The sensor then gives back a fraction of that 5 volts that signifies it's current reading. The vast majority of all MAF and MAP sensors are of this type.

The other type of sensor is a frequency type. In this case the sensor communicates with the computer by means of a frequency. Both MAPs and MAFs sometimes use this method. The sensor is measuring the same thing as the voltage type, but instead of providing the ECU with a changing voltage, it provides a changing frequency. Ford used to use this type of MAP extensively in the 80s, but has since changed back to using voltage type. But you need to know about this type of sensor. The circuits described in this document will not work with a frequency type of MAP or MAF. Neither will the MAP enhancer you can get on Ebay. If you have a frequency type MAP or MAF you will need our Frequency MAP/MAF Enhancer. This is a device that can read a frequency and then provide a lower output frequency.

The best way to determine which type of sensor you have is to find the signal wire and measure it.

Finding the Signal Wire

Of course the easiest way to find the signal wire is to get a wiring diagram for your vehicle. This can tell you the exact wire, and it's color code, and save you some time. For resources on getting wiring diagrams for your vehicle, see our article: Wiring Diagrams. But if you don't have a wiring diagram, you can still find your signal wire by measuring it.

A MAP or a MAF will have 3 wires. One will by 5 volts, which powers the device and is supplied by the ECU. One will be ground, or 0 volts. So if you measure the 3 wires, just eliminate the 5 volt wire and the 0 volt wire, and the remaining wire is the signal wire.

This is slightly complicated by the fact that many MAF sensors today also include an Intake Air Temperature sensor in the same housing. In this case you'll have 5 wires going to the sensor. But it's OK, it's easy to find the correct wires you need. The temp sensor will have a ground wire and a signal wire. The signal wire will be up near 5 volts when the sensor is cold, but as it heats up that voltage gets lower. But a temp sensor's voltage will not change when you goose the engine, and that's how you can tell the difference. Also, if you unplug the sensor, and measure the signal wire on the computer side, it will read 5 volts.

Now, how do you make sure your MAP is a voltage type, and not a frequency type? You will need to watch the voltage as you make changes to the engine's RPMs. The best way is to goose the engine. The voltage will change dramatically on either a MAP or a MAF if it is voltage type. You will see a small change in DC voltage for a frequency type device too, but the changes will be slight, like tenths of a volt. Whereas the changes on a voltage type will be much more dramatic. Changes of over a volt indicate a voltage type MAP or MAF.

Tip: You can steal a straight pin from your wife's sewing box and push it through the insulation of the wire you want to test. Make sure you get into the conductor (wire) inside. This will be much easier than scraping away the insulation to test the wire.

Even if you find your signal wire using a diagram, you should still test it before proceeding. You must make sure that you see a voltage change when you rev the engine, and that the voltage drops back down when the engine slows back down again. If you see this phenomena, you can proceed to install the circuit. If you don't see this phenomena, then you have the wrong wire, or an incompatible sensor type. Do not try to use this circuit unless you find a signal wire that matches this phenomena. The biggest single cause of failure for any sensor modification project is to mis-identify the signal wire. So it's best to be absolutely sure.

The MAP MAF Enhancer Circuit

There's only 2 parts. Here's some Radio Shack part numbers that you can use:

Pot: 50K Linear Taper Potentiometer, Radio Shack #271-1716
Resistor: 47K Ohm Resistor, Radio Shack #271-1342 or #271-1131

Note: The resistor and pot values don't have to be exact. Just try to keep their values in roughly the same proportions as the ones I've shown. These values aren't particularly special. I wouldn't use less than about 10K on the pot, and the resistor should be approximately the same value as the pot. On some vehicles, this combination of pot and resistor can be too sensitive, such that very tiny movements on the pot make large changes in air/fuel ratio. You can make the device less sensitive by using a larger resistor. Double the resistor size or even triple it, and you will find the device is much less sensitive.

Cut the signal wire and connect the sensor side of the cut to one of the outside pot terminals. Connect the pot's center terminal to the computer side of the cut. See the diagram.

Note: If you have a preference for which way the pot turns when you are leaning the air/fuel mix, then you'll need to select which outside terminal to use by doing the following: Turn the pot all the way (until it stops) in the direction you want to be the least effect. In other words, if you want to turn the pot clockwise to make the mix leaner, then turn the pot counter-clockwise all the way. Now measure the resistance between the center terminal and the 2 outside terminals one at a time. One of these outside terminals will show no resistance to the center terminal. That will be the terminal you want to use on the signal wire.

The other outside terminal connects to ground, via the resistor. I recommend you use the ground that the sensor is using as per the diagram. You don't cut the ground wire. It must stay connected to the ECU. Instead, you'll tap into that circuit, as per the diagram.

That's all there is to it. To set the pot, first turn the pot all way towards least effect. There will be almost no resistance between the ECU and the sensor on the signal wire. This is the stock setting, with no change in the sensor's signal. Then start your car. You can now gradually turn the pot and you will eventually notice that the idle runs slower and eventually rougher. Back off on the pot until the engine is running smooth again. Also test the car on the road and make sure you're not losing power. If you are, then you need to back off the pot some more until these symptoms disappear.

Dual Edge MAP Enhancer

If you want to get fancier, you can build the popular Dual Edge MAP Enhancer. Again, despite the name, this circuit works just as well on a MAF sensor. This is the same design as above, but has 2 of these circuits, and includes a switch to switch between them. That way you can set up one circuit for highway driving and the other for city driving. A switch is used to switch between the 2 circuits. This design also can switch between stock MAP/MAF signal and enhanced signal. This is the exact same circuit that you will find in virtually all of the MAP Enhancers you see being sold on Ebay and around on the internet. The diagram for this design is shown here:

If you're not well versed in electronic schematic diagrams, there are only 3 different types of device used here. I think the resistors are self explanatory. You also have the pots and switches. The pots have 3 terminals. The center terminal in the diagram is the center terminal on the pot too. Similarly with the switches, the center terminal in the diagram is the center terminal on the switch. Make sure you get SPDT switches. If you don't know what what a pot or an SPDT switch it, then google it. These are simple devices that are described very well in many internet documents.